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Launceston Examiner (Tas. : 1842 - 1899), Monday 11 July 1892, page 3
WRECK
OF THE S.S. PORT DOUGLAS.
AN
INTERESTING ACCOUNT. (BY ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH.)
(FROM OUR OWN
CORRESPONDENT.)
HOBART, July 9. The S.S.Kaikoura
arrived here to-day from London, and brought with her
the passengers who were wrecked in the S.S
Port Douglas on the reef off Cape Verde on the North-West African Coast in
May last. Their tales are of a most interesting description, but probably that
of a passenger whose destination is Launceston possesses the most warmth of
feeling and thankfulness for his deliverance. He states that the S.S Port Douglas, commanded by Captain
C. A. Payne, of Melbourne, built by Messrs James Laing and Co., and engined by Messrs Clark and Co., of Sunderland, of 4283
tons register, and with an average steaming capacity of 12½ knots, left
Tilbury Docks on Saturday, May 14, for Melbourne and other Australian ports,
via the Cape, to make her homeward passage through the Canal. "We
experienced," he says, "a stiff breeze and somewhat trying sea down
the Channel, reaching Plymouth on Sunday morning, where we had to ship two
Government steam launches for Sydney. This detained us until early on Tuesday
morning, when we again got under way, and soon saw the old country like a faint
blue cloud on the horizon. All went merry as a
marriage bell till we came abreast of the Capes Almadie
(red) and Verde (white) lights, the latter, as I am informed, being one of the
best in the possession of France. On the night of the 24th my wife and I, leaning
on the port rail, were startled by what appeared to us a sudden acceleration of
the steamer's speed, and whilst still wondering at this there was a tremendous
concussion, and the huge boat jumped and swayed like a living thing in agony. The captain was on the
bridge, and the chief engineer close beside us. The latter, with commendable
coolness and promptitude, released the steam and seat the crew to work to rake
out the fires, thus averting an awful risk of explosion. There was, of course,
momentary terror and confusion, women and children shrieking, and men shouting.
This, together with the roaring stream and the rushing to and fro of the crew
to their posts, caused a bewilderment amongst the most self possessed which is
better described as helplessness than fear; still after this first natural
excitement had subsided, there was no further semblance of panic, and it was
gratifying to witness how tractable and obedient all were in so perilous a position.
After some delay the
boats were swung, manned, and the passengers got into their places, everything
being made ready for lowering at a moment's notice. By great good fortune the
ship had grounded on a comparatively flat rock, and being very broad in the
beam, her equilibrium was likely to be at least temporarily maintained, though there
being no possibility of ascertaining the extent of damage done--such uncertain
security was but little consolation to the poor frightened souls seated
swinging in the davits for several hours, waiting for dawn, with the ever
present dread of her heeling over upon them to seal their doom forthwith. All night long, signal
rockets were fired, and flaring coloured lights shown, to which, however, there
was no reply; for, as we subsequently found out, there were no means at the
lighthouse-keeper's disposal, which careless state of things did not redound to
the credit of French management. One of the children enquired whether our
pyrotechnic display was in honour of the Queen's Birthday, a query bearing
striking testimony to the fearlessness of innocence; indeed, when the
youngsters were once settled in the boats they soon went off to sleep as
contentedly as if they had been safely tucked up in their warm cribs at home. At length there was
sufficient light, and we were lowered into the sea, but owing to a heavy ground
swell, in which the ponderous boats were almost unmanageable, ours had a very
narrow escape from being dashed upon the reefs, which lay ominously black between
ourselves and the shore. Eventually we were compelled to abandon our first
attempt to affect a landing, and more by luck than skill succeeded in getting
under the lee of the steamer, boarded her, and obtained some refreshments. Later on in the morning,
Negros came out and piloted us near enough to terra firma to enable the men, though with much difficulty on
account of intervening slippery rocks, to wade in, carrying the women and
children with them. French soldiers had been told off to our assistance, but -
like pussy - did not seem to relish the idea of wet feet. Before quitting the Port
Douglas for the last time we saw from her deck that monster sharks were
prowling around us, evidently alive to the chance of a banquet, so that had we
once got into the water there would have been but small hope for anyone. We
have all to thank God for a marvellous escape from a terrible death, for the
more I think of that dreadful night, the more convinced am I that our own puny
efforts did but little towards our deliverance. We had now to wait in a
sort of courtyard attached to a black's dwelling, he I suppose being employed
at the lighthouses, and were glad to lie on the ground wherever we could find
shelter from the blazing tropical sun, the heat of which most of us had never
felt before, until mules arrived to carry the weaklings of our flock to some
barracks about four miles distant, we men having to tramp through a very
desert, weary and depressed as we were. When we reached these
military quarters we found the commandant hospitably disposed, he setting
before us plenty of vin ordinaire and
the sour yeastless bread so unpalatable to an
Englishman, yet under existing need acceptable enough. He also permitted us to
rest as comfortably as spare space would admit of during the four or five hours which elapsed before conveyances came to take us on to
Dakar, in the province of Senegal. I shall not forget that ten mile drive in a
hurry, crammed into a species of springless tumbril
and hurried over an indescribable road suffering from that sleepless fatigue
which invariably succeeds intense nervous strain, and in a state of semi-stupor
we were jolted and cramped, our bones and muscles aching incessantly as we
thought longingly of cosy beds in our native land, perhaps never to be enjoyed
by us again. What indeed would we not have given for a sweet patch of mother
earth and nothing but a starry canopy for covering? Dakar hove in sight, and
we were precious glad to crawl into the French hotel provided for us, though
instantly surrounded by jabbering messieurs
et mesdames, and still more pertinaciously
inquisitive niggers, who handled us and our scanty belongings with impunity. First of all rooms were
allotted to us, or rather as many of us as were fortunate enough to get them;
some having to creep into any corner they could find, there not being proper
accommodation for our number. Then we sat down to a bad specimen of
characteristic spread a la Francais, after which we retired to bed not yet having
recovered from the horror of what might have been. The foam cressed
billows still hovered around, rearing their dreadful forms like dark phantoms
against the peaceful steamer. The agony of suspense returned, increased rather
than modified by its unreality, and when the morning's sun's rays fell upon us
waking it was with more blessed relief that we looked into each other's eyes
and knew the grim ordeal was indeed an event of the past. Dakar is picturesquely
situated on the north shore of a North-West African bay. It
was captured from the Portuguese by the French, and is now an
indifferently fortified seaport, principally used as a coaling station. The
ordnance is out of date, and decidedly inferior; nor is there evidence of much
strength or any power of resistance. The garrison consists of from 2000 to 3000
troops-marine artillery, spahis (light cavalry for
quelling native disturbances), and infantry. It is here that the British Consul
resides, who, unfortunately for us, was absent in France at the time of our
mishap. Unfortunately, as is
frequently the case on large passenger boats, there were some of the rougher
sons of Britain amongst us, who under the influence of cognac foolishly allowed
their 'Rule Britannia instincts to encourage in them a wild
desire to rule Dakar also; and the consequences of this intemperate ambition
were most humiliating and lamentable, for after three days we were
ignominiously and indiscriminately bundled out of the hotel. Now was assigned to a
neighbouring restaurant proprietor the responsibility of billeting and boarding
us, but this did not turn out satisfactorily, with the result that eventually
we begged to be taken back to the hotel, and our prayer was answered. We had
been duly informed that the New Zealand Shipping Company were under contract to
call for and convey us to our destination in the S.S. Kaikouri, and most anxiously did we
await her arrival, for sickness with a bad form of colic had already seized
several of us, and we felt that fever was lurking near at hand, yet in the
midst of these severe trials another grievous blow added to our misery. A French schooner was
chartered to bring our baggage round from the Port Douglas, and all but the heaviest having been transhipped,
rode at anchor to take the remainder aboard in the morning. Through inexplicable
misadventures, she broke from her anchorage, drove on to the rocks, and went to
pieces, drowning a negro. Many of us sustained
irreparable loss. The owners of the schooner sent a small sum of money towards
the relief of the most destitute, otherwise the poor creatures would have had
to proceed in what they stood. Words fail to express the grief which came of
this last dire calamity; poor old humanity with its thousand and one cares
strives nobly, with more or less success, to live down such bitter trouble, and
its fell sting recurs with gradually diminished pain. Here were the
tear-stained faces of heart-broken mothers, the stern, sad looks of brave
bread-winners, who in years to come will look back upon the scenes of the
African coast, where much so precious lies buried in the deep. In conclusion, I must state on behalf of my wife and myself, as well as all our fellow passengers, that Captain Payne, under exceptionally trying conditions, did all that lay in him as a man to meet the grave responsibility of having lost his vessel and the inhumanity with which he was treated by the French, which must have lain like an incubus upon him. |
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